Previously published in The Daily Sentinel on
Sunday, September 30, 2001
Why Is Chili the State Dish of Texas?
It started with the farkleberry.
Ben told how such legislation was made in an article in the East Texas Historical Journal (Spring 1998, pp. 72-73), in case you want every last detail.
The farkleberry figures in the story because Albert Agnor asked his legislator to make it the "state berry" of Texas. Agnor claimed that was the secret ingredient that made him the world's champion chili cook.
Ever attuned to the needs of constituents, Grant floated the idea with legislative colleagues, to their great amusement. What weakened his support of the farkleberry even more was remembering that "Cactus Jack" Garner earned his nickname in a vain effort to elevate the prickly pear above the bluebonnet as the official state flower.
"But chili as a prospective candidate" for the state dish was another matter, said Grant. He learned that chili con carne had been developed in San Antonio, which gave it a bona fide Texas birth.
Considering that he had history on his side, Grant got Representative Ron Bird of San Antonio to cosponsor a resolution to make chili the official state dish.
Agnor came to Austin to participate in the lobbying for the resolution by preparing a huge pot of the chili for legislators and supporters. Some of the latter wore T-shirts on which was written "Legalize Chili" to advance the cause.
Then the opposition revealed itself. Says Grant, Beaumonters and Port Arthurs demanded the designation of "state dish" for gumbo, Hispanics advanced the cause of menudo, and the black delegation favored chitterlings.. According to Grant, a Democrat, a Republican nominated chateaubriand in a fit of partisanship.
But Grant argued authoritatively for chili by invoking the support of LBJ and Senator A.M. Aiken, dean of the Texas Senate, who moved Grant's House resolution through with great urgency.
Grant traveled to Dallas to celebrate the victory in a chili parlor operated by Francis X. Tolbert, Dallas Morning News writer and chili guru. Instead of the honors he expected, Tolbert made him pay for his bowl of the new official state dish.
While still in the legislature Grant also rode a horse from Marshall to Austin to demonstrate that Texas needed to get rid of its horse-and-buggy era constitution adopted in 1876 and still in use, but that is another story.
By Archie P. McDonald
Archie P. McDonald is Director of the East Texas Historical Association and author or editor of more than 20 books on Texas.
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Rumored, after the 65th (1977) Texas legislature voted Chili as the State Dish, they drove to Dallas to Frank Tolbert's Chili parlour for a celebration with the authentic version. There were no beans in Frank's chili.
House Concurrent Resolution No. 18, 65th Legislature, Regular Session (1977)