Paddling, floating, drifting the Gulf of Mexico in his kayak, with a few food items, water and a pistol, Paul Sanders was a long way from Oregon. In many ways he was exquisitely prepared to explore the Mexican coast, Central America and beyond. Four years of Spanish at Oregon State University, an expert kayaker, physically fit and adventurous., Paul suspended his academics a couple credits short of a degree to satisfy an urge to experience and see more before stepping back on the treadmill of routine life. He left behind a Lutheran minister father and a college classmate fiance.
The pistol, he explained to me later, was not for self-protection, but to end his life in case of shark attack. But it was a sudden storm, not sharks, that threatened his life and eventually dumped his limp, unconscious body on a remote shore in the Yucatan peninsula. Local Indians found Paul and mistaking the blonde, bearded 25 year old for the reincarnation of the great god Quetzalcoatl, gave him nourishment and shelter.
When he gained strength, they brought him into the village to meet an attractive female professor who taught at the Universidad Nacional de Mexico. They became lovers and she introduced him to academic Mexican society. Paul eschewed formal wear normally required of dinner parties and met Mexicos intellectuals in tee shirt and jeans. His fluent Spanish, intelligence and long blonde beard added credibility to the role "El Profesor Americano" that his new girlfriend had created for him.
When Paul tired of that scene, he bussed northward to the U.S. border, filling out applications for several jobs in Brownsville, Texas. He took the worst paying, but for him, most interesting: night desk clerk at the Valley Inn and Country Club at $1.10 an hour. He joined the night bellman, TMS, who worked for .80 an hour plus tips. Paul had lost the beard. His blonde hair was cut in a flat top with long duck tails combed back on each side. The dark-rimmed glasses and gymnasts build gave him a Clark Kent look. Patrons, expecting Hispanic help often did a quick doubletake to see two blonde Pacific Northwest guys behind the desk.
Paul could check up in a couple hours while I watched the switchboard and handled complaints. Paul's main focus was conversation with people from all over the world who came through our lobby, tourists traveling through Mexico and Central America. shrimpers, local entertainers, prostitutes and pimps. Paul was not only bi-lingual but conversant on many topics, a self-proclaimed citizen of the world, who enjoyed ethnic and other diversity. I was similarly loquacious, although from a JW perspective, keeping my Bible and reference books near the switchboard. If there was nothing going, I stretched out on two sofa cushions in front of the switchboard. If it was getting deep and I was contributing, I postponed sleep in favor of field service time.
We had several regulars. Santiago Name, a classical guitarist and singer, typically serenaded a lady in a garden area between the bar and office. Paul would give them an unoccupied room the maids had not cleaned. We registered a Mr. Fried Chicken several times a week, although he would never give his name. By 1:30 am he always called the desk and requested two fried chicken dinners from a downtown all night restaurant, Higgies Cafe. Then, of course, there were the shrimpers, men who stayed in the Gulf for many days, returning with cash and great thirst. In between visitors, Paul and I volleyed back and forth on a variety of topics.
Paul was especially thin-skinned about morals, ethics. An agnostic, he nonetheless had developed a personal ethical code, and didnt tolerate it being remotely questioned. Once I innocently inquired how he determined right and wrong, since he didnt use the Bible or a religious moral code. He became enraged, shouting: How dare you question my morals! Another night, he volunteered that he had been spending much of his days with Lupita, a young prostitute, who worked and lived in Boys Town, a Matamoros brothel. He had gained the trust of the bar owner Lupita worked for and was allowed to take her out during the day. He would buy her a meal and try to show her a good time. Then he would take her back and they would make love. He thought I would approve of his highmindedness. How would your fiance feel? I ventured. Paul shut me up quickly with: "What is your concern with my fiance?" I toned down my JW self-righteousness after that exchange.
Pierre, a shrimp boat owner from Morgantown, Louisiana was another intermittent customer, along with Monte, his second man. Pierre was a 5'3" Cajun made of steel. Within five minutes of meeting someone for the first time, he would pull a rag out of his pocket and drive a 16p nail into a two by four or hardwood wall with the palm of his hand. Other feats of strength followed with Monty acting like he was seeing it for the first time. Monty distrusted everyone but Pierre, and looked then like Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones does now. He always talked through a dangling cigarette.
Paul was intrigued by shrimping and always questioned Pierre about it. This eventually led to Paul and I being invited to join the crew as headers, whose job was to snap the heads off the shrimp. Paul gave the country club a two week notice to find another desk clerk. It was assumed I was leaving too, although I never said so. The motel manager was genuinely concerned about Paul and I beyond just replacing us. She had seen young men go out on shrimp boats and get caught up in the wine, women and song lifestyle and never recover. Thats not how she put it, exactly, but we knew that was what she meant.
Paul shook my hand as he left the morning after his last shift. I knew all along that my Theocratic schedule wouldnt permit me to be at sea for several weeks, although I was confident the lifestyle wouldn't have sucked me in.
Edited by - TMS on 24 December 2002 19:48:40